400 Years of Glorious Splendour!

Published by Liza Shajan on

As Balarama begins his practice of carrying the 750-kg wooden howdah, a replica of
golden howdah, and lead majestically the practice procession comprising of twelve
more elephants well before Dussehra, we Mysoreans starts counting down the dates
for what we fondly call “Jamboo Savari.” The aura of Dussehra shrouds the city with
withering of gulmohar flowers to British spring when Mysooru wakes up to misty
mornings where parks are loaded with seasonal flower carpets. It would perhaps be
more appropriate to say that preparations for the next year’s Dussehra festival start
even as the current year’s concludes.

Clinching tradition, our houses are groomed for Gombe Habba with dolls arranged
and displayed attractively from the new moon day. Scent of Mysore sandal and
Mysore “mallige” (jasmine) lingers throughout the day as houses spruces up for daily
pooja for the festival of colors and light. Well, Mysore has so much in itself, that how
much ever we experience, there still remains a lot more to explore!.

On a usual Sunday, our Amba Vilas Palace lights up with a million-bulb aglow for
one hour musical symphony by the police band. Eager tourists and home-town folks
forgather at resplendent palace as the needle of the clock inch towards 7 pm to
savor the nostalgic grandeur which transports them to another level of heavenly
music. But when Dussehra is around the corner, the brightly illuminated Mysore
Palace and the entire city is a sight to behold. Various cultural and religious
programs highlighting the dance, music and culture of the State of Karnataka are
performed in front of the palace as ninety seven thousand bulbs shimmering against
an inky black night. A visit inside the Mysore palace is worth at Dussehra times for a
rare glance of royal golden throne of the Wodeyar kings!

The view atop Chamundi Hill is breathtaking, specially early mornings and
evenings. Early morning gives rejuvenating precious moments of “cloud walk” and
evenings the panoramic view of Mysore city as city shines in full “watt”
glory! Monolith statue of Nandi, the bull and gigantic statue of Mahishasura made of
mortar and painted with bright colors, welcomes us at Chamundi Hills, the prime
landmark of Mysore city, visible almost from anywhere in the city center. The hill has
very close association with the founding of the city. In fact, the very name of Mysore
is associated with the hill. The “Betta” turns surreal and romantic during Dussehra,
you can be alone in that crowd and feel the divine ambiance for an enigmatic
experience!

Our otherwise sleepy Curzon Park near palace, during Dussehra adorns 35,000 of
plants, flowers and vegetables where the famous flower-show takes place with rose
designs of Nandi, howdah carrying elephant, Mahishasura, with special attraction of
a double headed-eagle using more than 30, 000 multicolored roses. The else forlorn
Kurahalli Lake will exhibit wide range of flowers, ornamental foliage plants, vegetable
plants, fruits, fruit & vegetable carvings (Mukimono), flower arrangement
(Ikebana). Chamundi Vihar stadium opens up for Dussehra sports, Town Hall for
women’s Dussehra, Jagamohan Palace for children’s Dussehra, Lalith Mahal helipad
for air show and kite fest, Doddikkera Maidan for Dussehra exhibition, JK ground for
Dussehra film fest, and CADA premises to tickle taste buds with an array
representing each state’s food. Every inch and minds of Mysooru is touched by
Dussehra!!

Celebration of Dussehra dates back to 600 years, to the rule of Vijayanagara
kings. The actual rule of Wadiyars of Mysore began with Raja Wadiyar I. In 1610,
Raja Wadiyar conquered Srirangapatna in battle of Kesare from Srirangaye, who
was the viceroy of Vijayanagara. Raja Wadiyar continued Dussehra festivities at
Srirangapatna which was started by Vijayanagara Kings. In 1799, the capital was
shifted to Mysore from Srirangapatna and Navarathri festivities began to be
performed with greater magnificence in the new capital. Khas Durbar was
introduced meant especially for guests from Europe, officials and royal family. The
festival reached it peak during rule of Nalwadi Krishnaraja Wadiyar (1902-
1940). Navarathri evenings were for acrobatic feats, wrestling sessions by
champions, fire work display, and other entertainments. The Wadiyars’ did much to
make their province a bastion of music, learning and art.

Here, this year we celebrate 400th year of Dussehra. Celebrations commenced with
a pooja performed to the Goddess Chamundeshwari atop the Chamundi Hills in the
presence of the Wodeyar royal couple and state officials. The State Government
arranges music, dance, and folk dance performances, flower and doll shows,
wrestling and Food and Film festival. There is Kite flying, air show, and water
adventure sports too! From the 7th to 17th of October 2010 you will find the entire
city in the mood for festivities. There are quite few new things to try out this
Dussehra. Experience Mysore Style Yoga and understand its positive effects on the
body. In Mysore, you can get to know the story of how this style started and why this
city considered holy for Yogis. Can try out Kushti, traditional wrestling of centuries
old from “Garadi Mane.” It is time of the yearwhen the entire city is decked up like a
bride. A Night Walking Tour is where you get a feel of this city, while it glistens every
inch. Mysore was recently voted the second cleanest city in India, so can even be
part of the walkathon.

On tenth day of Dussehra, a grand Procession is held which starts from Mysore
Palace and ends in Bannimantap. The main attraction of the Dussehra procession is
the idol of Goddess Chamundeshwari which is carried in a Golden howdah weighing
over 750 kgs on top of elephant, Balarama. Colorful tableaux created by different
State organizations participate in the procession. Musical bands belonging to State
Police, Folk dancers, decorated elephants, horses and camels also form a part of the
procession. The culminating program of the Dussehra festivities is the torch-light
parade held on a grand note at the Bannimantap grounds on the outskirts of the
city. Fire works display, daredevil stunts on motorcycles by a team of the Indian
army and a Laser show are part of the program.

As the festival for victory of good over evil ends, Mysore slumbers for another grand
wake up.

“The great day of Dussehra indicates, as the word suggests, Dasa-Papa-Hara
or the end of the ten sins. The ten sins are attributed to the ten sense organs
through which the mind contacts and gains knowledge of the phenomenal
world, and also reacts to the stimuli received from the world of objects.
Therefore the idea is that on this sacred day of Vijaya Dashami or Dussehra
the ten sins are ended which signifies the end of the mind and therefore the
end of the world of plurality when one becomes rooted in the transcendental
experience.” Swami Chinmayananda.

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